Growing Tomatoes in Containers

The biggest advantage to growing tomatoes in containers is that you can grow them just about anywhere they will get at least 8 hours of sun. You can move them if needed (say an unexpected frost). The biggest problems with container gardening are usually related to watering since they can dry out fairly quickly, so attention to watering or some type of irrigation can be needed. (Try one of the water holding gels or hydrogels if you think this will be a problem.).

Choosing a container: A standard type pot, the same height as diameter, with a diameter of at least 12 inches is recommended. A 5 gallon bucket is a common choice for some bush varieties. A plastic pot will not dry out as rapidly as a clay pot and will require less watering. It is essential to have drainage holes in the bottom or root rotting will occur. Place a round fiberglass screen of the same shape and size as the pot in the bottom to prevent soil from washing out of the holes and to bar the entry of pests into the pot. Half whiskey barrels, black plastic pots and bushel baskets can also be used. One other popular choice is to use a hanging tomato planter.

Choosing the Type of Tomato: While almost any variety of tomato will grow in a container, you want to make sure that the variety that you choose fits the area you want it. Tomatoes come in either determinate or indeterminate varieties. Determinate varieties will grow to yield a crop and then stop, while many indeterminate varieties will grow for a long period of time, and continue to vine and fruit for an extended period. Many cherry tomatoes are indeterminate. Smaller tomatoes are also likely to set fruit at higher temperatures, making them more desirable for hotter climates.

Tomato Varieties: You may want “bush” varieties because they don’t grow as high, especially if you want to try this indoors. Bush varieties may not need to be staked. A good variety is a better boy bush. If you like making sauces, try roma. A sweet 100 is a cherry tomato that literally produces hundreds of great tasting cherry tomatoes for salads, but it can grow to be over 6 feet tall.

Starting the Plants: The easiest way to start the plants is to buy them from the nursery. But often you can’t find the variety you want at the local nursery, so you may want to start your own. Tomato seeds can be started indoors in peat pellets or pots as about 6 weeks before the last frost date for your area.

Soil: In a container you can mix the soil as you wish, which gives you better yields. Tomatoes like a loose, well-drained soil. Always use a good amount of organic matter, this will help drainage. Try starting with a soil mix of one part each of potting soil, perlite, sphagnum peat moss and compost. Tomatoes are heavy feeders so you will want to add fertilizer. Fertilize the soil with a slow release type. Make sure that it’s a type for tomatoes, too much nitrogen will result in a lot of growth but no tomatoes.

Planting Fill the container 3/4 full with your soil mix. Put the plant close to the stake and fill in the soil mix around the plant up to the first set of true leaves. Water thoroughly and when the soil settles, add more soil until it comes to within an inch of the top of the container.

Supporting your tomatoes: Most tomato plants will need to be staked. Do this early so you don’t destroy the root system inserting the stakes. Tomato cages or stakes can be used. Be careful to place them so that as the tomato matures that it doesn’t make the container top heavy and prone to falling over in the wind. Shield it from the wind if necessary.

Water your tomatoes at least once a week, make sure they are staked properly, for a long growing season you might want to add fertilizer again, and enjoy your tomatoes. Put them in the garage for that first freeze, and you may get an extra week or two out of them.

Finally there is the option of using a hanging upside down tomato planter for the ultimate container planter.

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